Sunday, July 25, 2010

Leg 6 Delta Junction Alaska to Fairbanks

DSC_8915a sm

The drive to Delta Junction was pretty much uneventful but gorgeous. One simply can not get over the vastness of this place, it just is huge and you really feel it.  More trees around here than I thought existed in the world.  We were under impressed with our chosen CG, tight spaces, a totally spaced out manager (we were thinking some serious drug damage occurred to this poor fellow – reminded me of “Jim” on  the old TV show Taxi) but it served our purpose.  Delta Junction is the first place you can see the pipeline so we drove out to see our first view.  It is impressive, lots of serious engineering went into this project.  Here the pipeline had to cross the Delta River.  Remember this thing is full of heavy oil so they had to deal with weight, wind and suspension.

DSC_8897 sm

DSC_8906 sm

DSC_8889 sm

Then we all met downtown to take another group picture, this one to celebrate the end of the Alcan Highway and having traversed same.

DSC_8913a sm

DSC_8916 sm

For dinner there was a buffalo burger drive inn across the street, an actual drive inn – very cool and very good.

The next day we decided we were just not happy with our RV park so decided to move down the road. Rich and Joan drove into Fairbanks to Eielson AFB while the rest of us opted for a place up the road on the Salcha River. Another Yukon Government CG established mostly for boat launching but presenting a great spot to camp. Some fair fishing was also available, I was able to grab a couple of graylings. When I was first fishing earlier  Shelle and Rox came out to greet me and Shelle found an abandoned – most likely forgotten – fly rod and reel. It was a real cheapie, probably some kid’s outfit.  It needed some fixing up but I used it in the afternoon to catch the grayling, somehow that seemed like extra points.

DSC_8939a sm

Caught a couple small graylings right by the little point in this picture. Many of the rivers had this brownish – tannin – color.  It comes from minerals in the water and most clear streams had this cast.  As we moved north many of the rivers had a blue/gray milky color to them.  These were the glacial fed rivers.   It turns out to be very good for fish or fishing but still great looking rivers.  Here are some more shots of the Salcha River.

DSC_8940 sm 

DSC_8971a sm

DSC_8953 sm

      DSC_8949a sm                                                               

One of our first views of the ever present and beautiful Fire Weed. It is seen in many Alaska post card pictures.  Just starting to bloom now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

DSC_8976a sm

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another wild rose.

 

 

DSC_8947a sm

 

DSC_8962 sm

DSC_8987a sm

 

 

 

These are dog wood flowers, related to the dogwood found in the south. Very pretty flower.

 

Next it is off to the big city of Fairbanks.  We stayed at Rivers Edge RV Park, a so-so park. Full hook ups, close to the river and adequate for our needs.  The wifi did not work (even folks with all types of boosters failed), the laundry room wasn’t the greatest, and we were packed in pretty tight. But Fairbanks is cool and lots of stuff to do so we started doing it.

We started with Dorado Mines, a huge snag ‘em and milk ‘em tourist trap, but still fun and very interesting.  We learned a great deal about gold mining, the folks that did it and the various techniques used. In the end everyone pans a bag of dirt salted with some real gold dust. Susan got the most I believe, her gold was worth (if you bought it retail) something like $56, Shelle’s was worth about $35. The most interesting thing to me was that the train narrator/singer/guitar player/fiddle player is Hank Snow’s son!  He sounded pretty good.  Here he is getting started off.

DSC_8992 sm

Here is a shot of the people car behind ours, you can see nothing but a sea of people (most came in big tour buses).

DSC_8994 sm

Here is a supposed “typical” miners shack.

DSC_8997 sm

 

DSC_8998 sm

 

 

 

The people hauler train (electric) and some of the original old mining equipment.

Some of the flowers around the mine.

DSC_9003a sm

DSC_9001 sm

The next adventure, still a tourist “milker”, but more interesting and amusing was the river boat trip on a real stern wheeler.  A great ride down the river, a stop at a legit sled dog kennel, in fact  the family of Susan Butcher’s kennel. Susan was hugely famous as the first woman to win the Iditarod and repeated that win 3 more times..  These dogs are awesome.  I have never witnessed so much excitement and enthusiasm.  I had always wondered how much the dogs really liked their job, I can assure you they love it to death, it is so exciting to see, hear and feel their emotion and power charged enthusiasm, it moved me emotionally to experience that excitement.  These dogs are race dogs and do not look like your traditional Husky, bred to pull heavy loads, but not to race.

DSC_9107a sm

Here is a team coming back from a run pulling an ATV, the team is all excited and all their buddies in the pen are excited and hoping for their turn.

DSC_9111 sm

 

 

 

Since it is summer and warm they all enjoy a nice cool off in the river.

 

 

And here a couple of puppies just starting to learn the trade.

DSC_9091a sm

This dog sledding is not at all a tourist thing, they are purely for real and a big hobby/business in all of Alaska and major means of transportation in winter.

At the beginning of the boat ride we were presented a demonstration of a float plane, another very prevalent means of getting to places in Alaska.  The pilot was remotely wired into the boats sound system which was kind of fun.  He was flying a Super Cub, a very common plane up here.  He did a nice take off right in front of us, circled around, did a slip turn (kind of slide in sideways out of a bank turn, a quick straighten up and land) landing maneuver for us, very pretty!

DSC_9010 sm 

DSC_9080aa sm

say hello!

DSC_9080aa tight

and the slip turn:

DSC_9040 sm

DSC_9042 sm

DSC_9045 sm

To a perfect wings level picture perfect landing.

DSC_9046 sm

Further down the river we were able to see the confluence of a glacial fed river into the Yukon River.  The glacial fed rivers are milky – they are actually full of flour – yep, flour. The glacier carries big rocks as it slowly slides along.  These big rocks grind on stationary rocks and create a super fine powder which is of the consistency of, and is called, flour.  It stays in permanent suspension and hence the milky appearance of a glacial stream.

DSC_9135a  sm

After this we turned back to a mock up of an Indian fishing village.  (By the way, where as there are several tribes of native Alaskan Indians – many of them could be considered “Eskimos” – the term Eskimo is usually not used, in fact it sort of carries  a negative connotation.)

DSC_9125a sm

We first spied Caribou – exactly right after the ship’s narrator said they occasionally spotted Caribou here.  We soon found out they were not Caribou but Reindeer. Reindeer are nothing more than domesticated Caribou (wow, imagine Rudolph the red nosed Caribou – doesn’t work as well).

DSC_9162a sm

 

Then we were lucky enough to spot this fantastic bull moose.  He even posed for me, allowing me to get some great shots, even the following super close up!

 

 

DSC_9199a sm

The interesting thing was that he kept on posing, I think he was still posing after we left.  Some Doubting Thomas had the gaul to suggest it was a stuffed moose – no way!

Here one of the native American guides modeled a traditional fancy woman’s garb.  We were told the retail value of this jacket was over $15,000.

DSC_9190a sm

Here is a shot of our stern wheeler (and all the people that were our voyage companions :-( )

DSC_9141 sm

DSC_9006 sm

And another river shot.

DSC_9007 sm

Rich and I had one of the thrills of our life by taking a day fly in trip into the Fairbanks wilderness on a way cool float plane (a DeHavlin Beaver – a super wonderful back country, reliable, powerful plane).  We flew over the forests and over the tundra and landed on a little river where the pilot has some rustic, basic cabins and some small boats with 2 hp outboard motors. He dropped us off and we had the day to explore and catch Northern Pikes – and catch them we did.

IMG_1085

IMG_1108a

DSC_9262a sm

Landing on the river (Rich in the right hand seat). And below, off loading gear.  The plane ride alone made the day!

DSC_9264a sm

DSC_9274a sm

Rich tossing a lure (check out the bend in that pole).

DSC_9305a

 

These are Indian caches, houses on stilts to store food – we figured these were pretty good signs we were in the right spot.

 

DSC_9291a sm

 

Here Rich is motoring us home, well back to base camp, to clean our catch and get ready for the flight home. The limit was five Northerns each and we brought home 10 beautiful fish.  Oh my gosh what a stupendously wonderful day!!!

DSC_9283a sm 

Everyone helped in the cleaning and another fish feast was served (actually several feasts were had with these delicious fish).

Here is our RV park in Fairbanks.  These pictures were taken after 11:30p, it was this bright at 1 am. We got so used to the midnight sun that as it is now (later at this writing) dwindling we miss it.

DSC_9220 sm

DSC_9217a sm

Next stop Denali National Park – and the next post.

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Leg 5 Destruction Bay to Tok, Alaska

DSC_8874aa sm

We left Whitehorse Wednesday June 9 headed for Destruction Bay on knock-down-dead beautiful Lake Kluane. Unfortunately the weather turned for the worse and we couldn’t fully see and appreciated the magnificent Kluane Mountain Range and Ice Field.  We saw enough to feel and see the grandeur.  Always ice and snow, forever.  The campground is Congdon Bay and is a government CG, no amenities, but awesome.  There are about 7 or 8 sites that back up to the lake and we all were able to get one, good score.

IMG_0886 sm

Entering Haines Junction, Kluane Mountains in background.

IMG_0893 sm

IMG_0899 sm

First view of the lake, of course in bad weather but this will change, in fact it cleared up shortly after we arrived.

IMG_0891 sm

Roxy snoozing in the back seat.  “Are we there yet Dad?”

IMG_0915 sm

Some views around camp.

IMG_0920 sm

Mike and Sally’s spot, lake in background.

IMG_0921 sm

IMG_0923 sm

IMG_0964aa sm

IMG_0971a sm

IMG_0939a sm

One of the views out one of our windows!

We did try our hand at fishing, especially after Mike caught a Lake Trout on his first cast.  Fishing slowed down quite a bit but with a little perseverance (and stubbornness) I finally landed a nice, big lake trout. Here is an example of perseverance (note the lone fisher person in the water).

IMG_5296

I was all by myself and hooked into this really nice lake trout and was able to beach land it.  I let out a real loud whoop and a big yahoo. It was 31” long and we estimated 10 to 12 pounds (my de-liar tool only goes to 8 pounds and it was bottomed out even after removing the entrails – nice fish). We filleted it out, Joan took some of the fish to do her beer batter magic again and I took the rest and marinated it (used some of Ruth’s home made salsa) and barbequed it in foil.  We didn’t eat until about 8 but what a meal.

P6090115

IMG_0916a sm 

IMG_0919a sm 

IMG_0929 sm

IMG_0930 sm

 

 

 

 

 

The remains, the orts, not much left. But a bunch of happy campers.

Here are some folks fishing.

IMG_0962a sm Shelle working it, what a view.  We never got used to the fantastic scenery.

IMG_0955a sm Me looking for anther one.

IMG_0973 sm Jeff holding up his big prize keeper.  At this point he had been skunked but he will soon change that.

IMG_0932a sm

Big lake, little dog.  Water was too cold to go swimming, but just right for lake trout.

Nobody was anxious to leave this paradise, but Friday morning was very cool – 40 degrees – and very windy. I fished a few hours in the am, managed another lakie and then we all decided to move on, maybe get some better weather. Next stop per “shed ule” is another Yukon Government camp, Lake Creek CG.  Only 75 miles today so late departure is no issue.  Driving was.  We started to get a feel for the “real” Alaskan Highway.  Lots of frost heaves (like speed bumps), carved up ground with miniature canyons to navigate, and the perpetual construction. Some of the highway now is gravel, like the old highway that some folks remember.

IMG_0989 sm

IMG_0990 sm

What a great CG this Lake Creek CG is.  And it is right along side a great little river (or real big creek!). We were told there was no fish in the river but it just looked too good, so we had to try. I suspected grayling and remember one of my big goals is to catch a grayling and to do so on a fly outfit.  When I was a young kid my Dad taught me how to fly fish and I remember reading about Grayling and what cool fish they were.  I vowed someday to catch one and it only took me about 55 years but by damn, I did it.  Got a hit almost right away, missed it – went back and nailed that beautiful fish!  Wowee! Grayling are related to trout, they are a char and they are super fun to catch on a light rig.  They average 8” to 14”, fight well for their size and are incredibly wonderful to eat.  Probably the best fresh water fish I have ever eaten, including my old favorite – walleye. Very tender, very moist, and absolutely no fishiness at all.  The downside is that they do not keep, you have to eat them right away (which of course we did!).  My first one was a very nice sample, well above average, a 17-incher.  And I caught it with my childhood split bamboo rod, over 50 years old, and an old Royal Coachman fly, over 45 years old.  How cool is that?!

IMG_0997aa sm

Excuse the messy hands, I had just cleaned this little beauty.  Wish I had a better picture, this was self taken while holding the fish in the other hand.  It is like a trout mated with a sail fish and stayed small. I am stoked, to say the least.  We all caught fish here, even Jeff who broke his being skunked jinx. Many of us limited out, which was 5 a person.  And of course we did have a big fish fry and tons of fun doing it. We cooked them different ways.  The easiest way was to cook them whole (cleaned, of course) one of many different ways. Our favorite was wrapped in foil with seasoning (thyme, oregano, lots of garlic) and a bit of beer (darker beer preferred). It is also possible to fillet these guys and cook in oil or do the beer batter thing.

IMG_1022 sm Joannie coaching me on the fine art of beer batter cooking (we even used some real sourdough starter, worked very well).  One night we had a major fish fry, another feast, how are we ever going to go back to the real world?

One night it rained for a bit and then a super rainbow, excellent.

IMG_1018a sm

Some shots around camp.

IMG_1024a sm

 

IMG_0999a sm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_1000a sm

 

 

 

These are Prickly Roses, basically your wild rose, and are everywhere and are really very pretty.  Actually there are tons of wild flowers everywhere, really a big part of the beauty of the trip.

IMG_0992 sm  This is part of the river we walked and fished.

IMG_0996 sm

IMG_0993 sm Shelle working the river.  The grayling would rise to a fly or a spinner like  a Mepps.  We were truly in the right place at the right time.  Our last night we had a big camp fire.  We had accumulated plenty of  fire wood as many of the government parks provide free fire wood (you have to split it yourself) but could not take it into Alaska so we burned a whole bunch and enjoyed a great fire.  Tomorrow it is off to Alaska, first stop Tok.

The drive to Tok was probably the worst so far.  We have been averaging around 50 mph or a little more, this leg we averaged 38 mph and accumulated several pounds of mud.  We all washed our rigs in Tok, you could have built an adobe house from the mud that came off our trucks and rigs!

IMG_1043 sm

Part of the road on the trip to Tok.  It wasn’t all like this but actually the gravel road parts were almost better than the asphalt because the gravel doesn’t get the big frost heaves as bad as the asphalt.

IMG_1044 sm

And finally we re-enter the U.S. and drive into Alaska.

IMG_1047 sm

Below another construction delay, all the HitchHikers lined up. If you look close you can see some of the mud on the trucks.

IMG_1050a sm

It is interesting, you often run into many of the same people along the way, all generally going in the same direction.  We gained notoriety due to our uniqueness of 4 rigs, all the same brand so people started to referring to us as the HitchHiker group (which of course we are :-))

A couple of flower shots to close this posting:

IMG_1036a sm

IMG_1033a sm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next stop will be Delta Junction, the actual end of the Alcan Highway.